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VOLUME XLI * No. 159 * Autumn 2000
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VOLUME XLI * No. 159 * Autumn 2000

Highlights

János Végh

What Clarks Have Joined Together...
Imre Gáll and Szilvia Andrea Holló, eds.: The Széchenyi Chain Bridge and Adam Clark. Budapest, City Hall Publishing House, 1999, 208 pp.


The Chain Bridge, one of the gems of the Hungarian capital and perhaps the architectural structure best loved by its inhabitants, is often used as the symbol of Budapest. Like most bridges, it connects the two banks of a river; and metaphorically it is a link between Great Britain and Hungary as well. The best-known of Budapest's (and for that matter of all Hungarian) bridges, it was designed by an Englishman, William Tierney Clark, and the construction was supervised by a Scotsman, Adam Clark (no relation), who grew so fond of Hungary that he married and settled here. He was welcomed and his name was soon Hungarianized, both in spelling and with the Christian name coming after the family name, to Clark Ádám.

The city itself has only borne the name Budapest since 1873, when its two for-merly independent parts, Pest and Buda, were unified, together with Óbuda. They had been separated by the Danube, here not much wider than the Thames in London. Buda had been built in medieval times on a steep and easy to defend hill on the right bank, and became the royal seat and capital. At the time, Pest was in law simply an attachment to Buda, with a certain amount of autonomy. In the Middle Ages the two were connected by a ferry, while in the 16th and 17th centuries a pontoon bridge occasionally connected the two. The 18th century, the first prolonged period of relative peace and quiet in Hungary after the early 16th century, felt the need for a permanent link. First a flying bridge was built, replaced in 1767 with a pontoon bridge consisting of 46 boats anchored and fastened together, much subjected to the vagaries of the weather. It was wide enough for two carts, leaving just enough room on either side for pedestrians to cross in single file in one direction only.

The pontoon bridge was permanent only by comparison with earlier efforts. When the thaw or floods came, it had to be removed-and this was both inconvenient and expensive. When there was a flood, passengers were carried over in boats (with a tariff dramatically increased) while the spring thaw rendered all contact impossible between the two banks. In those days the river not infreqently froze over, and when it was covered with a thick layer of ice, wheelbarrows and tumbrils were allowed to cross, although carts were considered too heavy. This regular loss of contact, lasting sometimes for weeks or even longer, seriously affected the life of the residents of both cities, especially merchants, even if they had become somewhat accustomed to these interruptions. On the other hand, those travelling on their own account or on official business, were baffled and appalled at being forced to interrupt their journey for several weeks.

Towards the end of the 18th century the idea of constructing a permanent bridge came to the fore. Apart from the problem of the vast funds required for a project of such a scale, there was also the basic technical dilemma of whether the bridge should be a pier bridge or a suspension bridge. They were wary about the first solution for fear of increasing the danger of a flood by blocking the ice drift with a row of piers, while the suspension bridge was little known in this part of Europe. Suspension bridges had been erected in England, France and Germany for over fifty years then, but those countries were a long way off and all their bridges had been built over rivers much narrower than the Danube.

 

The project was first taken closer to success when István Széchenyi took an interest in it. He followed the most noble traditions of the Hungarian aristocracy. He came from a family that had established a good, non-rebellious reputation for themselves at the Habsburg court in Vienna, which allowed him to carry out his projects without the authorities trying to block any of his efforts from the start. Count István spared no effort in combating the backwardness of Hungary, a backwardness due to its lack of independence, its remoteness, and, more often than not, the general lethargy and passivity of its people. The Hungarian aristocracy of the Enlightenment and the era labelled "The Age of Reform" (the two decades immediately preceding 1848) had to take the initiative in many areas where, in more fortunate countries, the initiatives would come from the ruler. István Széchenyi's father, for instance, donated his precious collection of books and medals to the nation, a collection which was to become the core of today's National Museum. His son offered one year of the income from his vast estates as the financial basis for a Scientific Society-whence sprang the Hungarian Academy of Sciences.

Apart from his money, István Széchenyi never hesitated to make use of his excellent management skills. When it came to a worthy cause, he was so determined that nothing could stop him. As he wrote, "They may cut my wings and I shall walk. If they cut my legs off, I shall walk on my hands, they tear off my hands, I shall crawl on my stomach. To be of use at any cost." He did much to improve the transportation network of Hungary. An important part in this was the regulation of a stretch of the Danube-the Iron Gates. This stretch of the river, crossing present-day Yugoslavia and Romania, could not be used by river traffic because of the sharp rocks covering its bed. Removing these rocks with explosives opened the passage to the Black Sea for Hungarian ships. Széchenyi also initiated the flood protection work on the River Tisza, introduced steamboats onto Lake Balaton and brought horseracing to Hungary.

In the case of the construction of the Chain Bridge, the importance of the issue and the high costs made it impossible for him to carry out the whole project alone. So he gained the consent of the Habsburg Palatine-in essence a Lord Lieutenant of Hungary-which made it possible to collect all the necessary data concerning the Danube. By founding a 'Bridge Society', he raised the interest of several groups, and as soon as some in the highest circles in the land decided to join, bankers ceased to be reluctant to finance the project. Strange as it may sound, the government took no part in the project whatsoever, and thus the first-and for quite long time the one and only-permanent bridge to cross the Middle and Lower Danube was built as a private enterprise.

It took much effort to complete. Széchenyi, a great admirer of English industrial progress, obviously decided to invite English know-how when it came to the technological realization of his idea. He got in touch with Brunel, the famous bridge and tunnel engineer, as early as 1827. His two trips to Britain in 1832 and 1833/34 served the purpose of preparing the construction. It was in this period that he met Tierney Clark, the civil engineer of London's Hammersith Bridge, which is still standing, though no longer in use. Clark's suggestion, that of a suspension bridge with two piers in the river, soon gained dominance. After several trips to Hungary and detailed observation of the site, Clark agreed to draw the plans in 1839. However, he had several other commissions to complete, so rather than coming to live to Hungary, he offered the post of resident engineer to a young Scotsman, who had gained some experience in navigation on the Danube by designing and testing a dredger here.

 

Construction began in 1839, when piles of top quality timber were placed at the bottom, as the first stage of building a lock chamber, which housed the two piers under construction. Both Clarks agreed that only top quality material was to be used, so the granite to cover the piers was brought from Mauthausen, in Upper Austria, while the steel for the chains came straight from England. It was a complicated process, but it brought perfect results. The first real-life testing occurred in 1849, when the insurgent Hungarian troops followed by the Habsburg army marched along the newly built bridge with all their artillery and ammunition. The bridge was officially opened in late 1849, after the collapse of the Revolution, and the ceremony had no significance whatsoever. Neither Széchenyi nor Tierney Clarke attended.

The Chain Bridge has served as a link between the two halves of the city, mutually dependent on one another for over 150 years. Because of the wear and tear caused by motor vehicles, all steel parts had to be replaced in 1914/15. The bridge was blown up by the Germans towards the end of the Second World War. The Red Army took the city after a savage two month seige, by the end of which all that was left of the bridge was its two piers.

The book I am reviewing gives all the information on the history of the bridge in greater detail, and more. It is a collection of papers on cultural and technological history by British and Hungarian authors, and this, like the bridge itself, links Britain and Hungary. Chapter 1 is about the temporary bridges and the birth and development of the idea of a permanent bridge, including all the legal and organizational obstacles, with special emphasis on the role of István Széchenyi. Chapter 2 gives an overview of the existent cultural links between Great Britain and Hungary at the time, while the next article is a portrait of Tierney Clark. The next two are about Adam Clark and other "lad o'pairts", as young, travelled Scotsmen were referred to. They are supplemented by excerpts from his letters to his parents, and commentaries. Then follows a professional paper for those interested in the technical history on the construction and several reconstructions of the bridge. The last two articles place the bridge in the context of art history as an architectural achievement, in the context of its age and its surroundings, and deal with its many representations in painting since the middle of the last century.

The production and appearance of the book is worthy of praise too. Even its cover feels good in one's hand. Obviously, it is richly illustrated, predominantly with graphic and photographic images of the Chain Bridge itself, including its plans. The book features portraits of all the major personages mentioned, including a respectful rather than mocking caricature of Széchenyi, as well as numerous old cityscapes and maps. There is a picture of the bridge's inspiration, Hammersmith Bridge in London. But this is more than just a book that is pleasant to look at: it is also a scholary piece of work, with plenty of footnotes to support its data. What makes it even more significant is the fact that it is the very first book to appear in English on the Chain Bridge-one of the great architectural achievements of its age, though little known outside Central Europe.

Remarkably enough, Géza Hajós, the renowned art historian, whose idea the book was, is a descendant of Adam Clark -little wonder he starts his introduction with the words:

The offspring of Adam Clark became involved in a most active correspondence in the wake of a personal investigation which came about by accident, led from Edinburgh through Australia as far as Budapest and finally they even met in a small cemetery in Scotland. It was this romantic reunion and the more intimate family relationships which emerged that launched the history of this book on the Chain Bridge, which has its 150th birthday celebrated in 1999, and on its creator.


János Végh
is Professor of Art History at the Academy of Applied Arts, Budapest. His books include: Fifteenth Century German and Bohemian Panel Paintings in Hungarian Museums (1967), Sixteenth Century German Paintings in Hungarian Museums (1972), Early Netherlands Paintings (1977), all from Corvina Press, Budapest, and also in English.

 
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