Árpád Mikós
Stories Set in Stone
...
What, then, was the geographical and political context of this region's Late
Renaissance architecture? This is not as simple a matter as it may seem. For
one thing, the Principality of Transylvania is often identified with the lands that
belonged to the pre-Trianon Kingdom of Hungary and are now part of Romania.
Such is not the case. It was an entity with constantly changing borders, both
historically and geographically speaking, that first came into being in 1541 with the
fall of Buda and the tripartite division of medieval Hungary, and only gradually did
it gain independence from what was left of Royal Hungary under Habsburg rule.
The Principality was forced to survive as an Ottoman vassal for a century and half,
only to be occupied by the Habsburg armies after the Ottoman Turks had been
driven out of most of what had earlier been Hungarian territory. In the principality's
golden age, under Princes Gabriel Bethlen (1608-13) and George I Rákóczi
(1630-48), its territory expanded northwards to swallow seven of the counties of
neighbouring Upper Hungary (roughly modern Slovakia), including the major city
of Kassa (now KoŠice). The territory then shrank substantially as a result of the
catastrophic foreign policy pursued by George II Rákóczi (1658-60) after the
incursions of Ottoman-backed Tartar forces. Nagyvárad (Oradea) fell to the Turks
and Szatmár (Satu Mare) to the Habsurgs, while the northern frontier was pulled
back to Királyhágó Pass (Piatra Craiului), which turned Kolozsvár, one of the
principality's main strongholds, into a border fortress. The reign of Michael I Apafi
(1661-90) marked a regeneration of the state though, as its artistic relics testify, the
period could not compete with those preceding it. Transylvania's constitutional
position was settled by the Diploma Leopoldinum of 1691, under which it ceased to
be recognised as an autonomous principality and its territory was annexed to the
Habsburg Empire. So much for the bare facts, to which it should be added that
present-day thinking about Hungarian history breaks from Romantic nineteenthcentury
historiography by no longer attributing to the Principality of Transylvania
a decisive role in the political evolution of the Kingdom of Hungary.
That cannot be said to be the case when it comes to culture, however. The princely
court in Transylvania was not just a sanctuary for Hungarian opponents of the
Habsburgs: it also became a major centre of far-reaching influence for the propagation
of Hungarian-and primarily Protestant-cultural values. It was a uniquely
important locus for Hungarian literature and art throughout the sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries. As far as architecture goes, the earlier literature tended to
overemphasise the influence of Italian models; however, as András Kovács demonstrates-
and this represents a huge shift in art-history perspectives on Transylvania
-Italian designs did not arrive directly from Italy but, generally, by way of Austrian,
German, Bohemian or Moravian intermediaries. He also ascribes a key role in the
process of transmitting styles to etchings and engravings and imported items of
applied art that had been previously overlooked. Broadly, he argues that Transylvania's
peripheral position, and hence its relative isolation, accounts for Renaissance
stylistic elements being preserved for so long in its arts. Indeed, conservative
eclecticism dominated: Renaissance forms persisted in architectural sculpture and
decoration until well into the seventeenth century and, conversely, Baroque stylistic
elements did not appear in Transylvanian buildings before the eighteenth century.
In this easternmost borderland of Western culture, the bulk of the constituent
"nations" of its inhabitants professed the Protestant faith (the Hungarians being
Calvinists or Unitarians, the "Saxon" Germans Lutherans) and therefore unresponsive
to the Baroque. Clearly a scarcity of master builders trained in the latest fashions also
played its part, a dearth that was evident throughout the seventeenth century.
Of the three "nations" that made up the body politic of Transylvania, the Saxons
and the Székely were distinct from the Hungarians in, among other things, being
granted their own separate administrative territories-so-called "seats" (székek)
-that retained their "ancient" (i.e., medieval) privileges in regard to self-government,
the administration of justice, obligation to perform military service, etc. The
Hungarians and the Székely shared a language, while the Saxons spoke a German
dialect that, due to long separation from the German lands, preserved many
archaic elements. So great were the inroads made by Protestantism that few
outside the Székely lands were still Catholic by the latter half of the sixteenth
century. The principality was in fact conspicuous for a freedom of religion that was
uncommon in Europe at that time, with four "recognised" denominations: Roman
Catholicism, Lutheranism, Calvinism and Unitarianism. Of its princes, John
Sigismund (d. 1571) professed the Unitarian faith, while among his successors
those of the Báthory family were Catholic, while Gabriel Bethlen and the Rákóczis
were Calvinist. (It may be noted that the serfs, though obviously not partaking of
high art and culture to any great extent, were similarly diverse when it came to
their religion; most of the Romanians were Greek Orthodox.) Such religious
tolerance was a magnet for many foreigners, including intellectuals and artisans,
who had been driven out of their own countries due to their religious beliefs.
Transylvania, with its multilingual population, was also a flourishing centre of
book printing. Pre-eminent among these printers was the firm of Hoffgreff-Heltai,
which operated for a long time (until 1660) in Kolozsvár-Klausenburg and whose
output included Hungarian-language books, and that of Johannes Honterus in
Brassó or Kronstadt (Brasov), which even printed Greek texts. Kolozsvár was also
the place chosen by Miklós Tótfalusi Kis on his return from Amsterdam (where he
is now credited with designing a font, previously attributed to Anton Janson, that
became widely used throughout Europe), to set up his own printing shop, which
was active between 1693 and 1703.
...
The frequent wars of the period lent considerable importance to the building of
fortifications. A curious anomaly, though, is that all the large fortresses, with
defences designed to withstand cannon fire, were built along the northwestern
border with Hungary, not in the south, as the Porte would not permit fortifications
in the Principality, which was under their suzerainty and thus their nominal ally.
A strong defensive line would have hampered their ability to occupy territory
whenever they pleased. At the same time, there was no sense in constructing
fortifications in the interior of the country, because the mountainous terrain made
it impossible to deploy the heavy artillery of the day, even though the sixteenth
century was the heyday throughout Europe for the construction of fortifications
alla moderna, i.e., with a symmetrical ground plan. The first signs of this being
taken into account in Transylvania were to be found in the refurbishment of the
medieval fortifications of larger towns like Brassó and Nagyszeben. The first
modern castle to be given new Italian-style bastions was that of Szamosújvár or
Armenierstadt/Neuschloss (Gherla), work on which commenced in 1538 on the
orders of King John I (Szapolya) of Hungary and was then continued on the
instructions of (Friar) György Martinuzzi (with a gate house built in 1542); its
completion dragged on, as was generally the case with fortresses, into the
seventeenth century. The most ambitious of the fortifications was the modernisation
of the castle at Nagyvárad, or Grosswardein, which was remodelled to a
pentagonal planimetric design. Work on this started during the reign of Prince
John Sigismund (1558- 71), with a certain "Julius Caesar" as the architect- most
likely Giulio Cesare Baldigara, a military engineer who is known to have been employed by the Habsburgs.
There were other instances
of trained architects from
Habsburg Royal Hungary
being employed to pass on
their expertise to Transylvania.
Thus, active
though Gabriel Bethlen was
in pursuing building programmes,
the work on
Nagyvárad Castle was still
incomplete at the end of his
reign and was thus carried
over into that of George I
Rákóczi. It was also under
Bethlen that a start was
made on refashioning
the walls of the princely
residence of Gyulafehérvár
to Italian specifications
(with the construction of
two of the eventual four bastions), but that too was suspended because the castle,
located at the foot of several hills, was hard to defend. Bethlen was also
responsible for commissioning Italian bastions for the fortifications at Fogaras
(Fa˘ga˘ra˘s¸), a residence fortress which during the latter half of the seventeenth
century became the principal refuge of Transylvania's princes.
Fortified churches were a distinctive type of architecture in Transylvania's
smaller market towns, created by putting up a wall around the church and
reinforcing it with towers and bastions, depending on what resources the
settlement was willing or able to afford. The Saxons of southern Transylvania were
the first to fortify their churches in this manner, as early as the fifteenth century,
and extension of them continued (e.g., at Höltövény or Heldsdorf [Ha˘lchiu],
Prázsmár or Tarlau [Prejmer], etc.), the spur for which was given by the sporadic
incursions of Turks from the South. The Székely areas, being further away from
that threat, faced the same problem only somewhat later and did not start to
fortify their churches until the sixteenth century. Fighting at the turn of the
sixteenth into the seventeenth century prompted some communities, such as
Nagyajta (Aita Mare) and Sepsiárkos (Arcus¸), to beef up their defences with
modern Italian bastions and towers, or at least fortifications that were reminiscent
of these. The final stage in this series of developments is the fortified church at
Kézdiszentlélek (Sianzieni), which was constructed early in the eighteenth
century, though the defensive function of the peculiar polygonal star-shaped walls
with four cylindrical towers had become completely obsolete by then.
In the next chapter of his superb book, Kovács goes on to look at châteaux, castles
and manor houses. For the most part, we are dependent on written sources for any
insight we may have into the kind of life that was led by the occupants of these
residences and their associated cultural trappings. The most important of these
sources are the inventories that were compiled to provide a provisional record, every
now and then, of the contents of such a residence, from furniture and carpets to
pots and pans, from the various parts of its main edifice to its gardens and farm
buildings. Narrative sources, such as chronicles, travel accounts, letters and, in the
case of the princely court, reports from envoys allow us to catch a glimpse of
everyday life and, at times, the manner in which festivals were celebrated. So do the
memoirs that make up one of the major genres of Transylvanian literature.

Pride of place in this chapter is given to the Prince's Palace in Gyulafehérvár.
This complex of buildings, laid out around three courtyards, largely stands to this
day, having been in the hands of a succession of military authorities until very
recently. It started off from a kernel of buildings- the medieval Episcopal Palace
and Dean's House- close to the Cathedral and reached its greatest extent by the mid-seventeenth century. It was destroyed twice- first in the upheavals
that followed Sigismund Báthory's abdication (1598), then in the sack of the city
by Turks and Tartars in early 1658- and we have only written sources to turn to
for what it was like at its peak, in the days of Gabriel Bethlen and George I
Rákóczi. It was under Bethlen that it assumed an imposing presence, the most
striking feature of which, from the outside, were the battlements crowning the
cornice- another instance of just how decisive a role the construction work
initiated by Bethlen had on seventeenth-century Transylvanian architecture.
Kovács disposes of one of the older legends of art history by showing that not
a single château with a symmetrical ground plan was constructed within the
Principality in the sixteenth century. The ground plan for the château built by
István Bocskai at Egeres (Aghires¸), which supporters of the earlier view used to
cite as their prime piece of evidence, turns out to have been asymmetrical when it
was originally built, and every last one of the country houses that went up in the
final third of the century differs in its ground plan. Thus, János Gálfi's château at
Bólya or Bell (Buia)- sadly, a ruin nowadays- was likewise constructed to an
irregular ground plan. At Fogaras, the medieval fortress was transformed into a
palatial residence, with the court façade of one wing being furnished with a loggia
in which the arch of the vault seems to slip in a Mannerist fashion. The Old Castle
at Szentbenedek (Ma˘na˘stirea) supplied the nucleus for the ensemble of buildings
that make up the Kornis Château. Of special interest is the Veres Bastion at
Marosillye (Ilia Eilenmarkt), which was originally a corner-bastion belonging to
the outer defensive wall of a demolished older castle. Instead of being filled in, it
was remodelled into a suite of rooms intended for formal functions, its walls in
part decorated with murals.
The palatial mansions that date from the Bethlen-Rákóczi era arose during
Transylvania's most glittering days. These were erected on regular ground plans,
with exteriors that, like the princely palace in Gyulafehérvár, were enriched by
windows topped by triangular pediments and italianate, crenellated cornices. The
earliest examples of this made an appearance in constructions for the princely
court. Alvinc or Winzendorf (Vint¸ul de Jos) was planned to be one of the very first,
but work on it was never entirely finished. Here the single-storey wings were to
have been set on a regular hexagonal ground plan of a huge area, with an Italian
bastion at each corner, with the façade articulated in part by twin windows. When
archaeologists excavated the middle of the courtyard, they came across the
foundations of the medieval monastery in which Friar György had been murdered
in 1551. The grandest of the two-storey residences was planned by Prince Gabriel
Bethlen to be the centre of Nagyvárad Castle. Like the fortress, this would have
risen on a pentagonal ground plan, but it too failed to reach completion. Symmetrical
designs were also adopted by members of the princely entourage. Square
mansions with corner towers were built by Simon Pécsi, a chancellor, at Radnót
(Iernut); by Ferenc Mikó, constable of the seats (székek) of Csík, Gyergyó and
Kászon, at Csíkszereda (Miercurea Ciuc); and by Zsigmond Lónyai, high sheriff of
Kraszna County, at Aranyosmeggyes (Medies¸u Aurit). A substantial castle, also of
rectangular ground plan but with round corner towers, was raised by George I
Rákóczi at Gyalu (Gila˘u). The models for these types of construction were
provided by country houses that had been built by the aristocracy of Upper
Hungary, such as the square château at Tavarnok (Tovarníky, Slovakia) or the
hexagonal castle of the Forgách family at Gács (Halicˇ, Slovakia); their instigator
was most likely Giacomo Resti, who went on from that part of Hungary to serve
the princely court in Transylvania.
Árpád Mikós
is Curator of the Old Hungarian Department of the Hungarian National Gallery, Budapest.